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| After a long wait, here we are, ready for 2014! Happy New Year to you! |
Wednesday, January 1, 2014
Friday, May 31, 2013
New Roads
Always trying to limit the kilometers, I have been trying to use different roads, to test their efficiency. I feel strangely over-excited by small discoveries like the ones I just made. It feels like beating Brasilia at its own game!
A few weeks ago I found this backroad that makes it much faster to get to the airport. It must cut off 5 or 6 km to the entire trip. This road cuts through what is called the chacaras, which were initially properties with a agrarian use. Today these properties are mostly large estates with comfortable mansions, just like anywhere else in the plush suburb of Lago Sul. The beauty of this road is not only its landscape but also the fact that there is no photo radar. Don't get me wrong, I am not a real speeder. But any distractions are so costly that I prefer taking the back road.
A more important discovery was this "highway" to the JK bridge, all the way from the W3 South to the bridge, uninterrupted by retornos (U-turns) or round-abouts. It is called Via das Ligação Se/Ne, the SE/NE Connecting Avenue. Why am I so excited by this find? It is because if moving North-South in this city can be in a very short time and in a very direct way using the large Exio, moving East-West. But crossing the "wing" of the plane of Brasilia, through the quadras (clusters of housing blocks) is frankly speaking a pain. Moving East-West was obviously not a concerned for the planners, imagining that weaving through the quadras would flow easily, but the effort of reaching the W3 from the bridges and Lago Sul is greater than coming from completely the opposite direction (Asa Norte).
In other words, without the Ligação, the West-East travel necessitates to needle in and out of the quadras through their commercial streets. Commercial streets which are already congested by the lack of parking space and the number of enthusiast double-line parkers. And since the quadras are not aligned with one another, but arranged in staggered lots one from another, one has to flow along around a round-about to the next connecting street to the following round-about to the next quadra's commercial street to a set of three dips under the massive Eixo and its side Eixãos through the next commercial and around the next round about to the next connecting street to the next round about to the next commercial street until you reach the W3. Dizzy?
A portion of the Ligação is fairly new, so new that Google Maps did not get it right yet (yes I doctored the maps to show you where I drive). But the good news is some planners have accepted to cut through the "picture perfect plan of Brasilia" to make something essential and efficient, probably amidst some purist opposition.
Via the quadras, the Garça Bridge and along Dom Bosco road: 18,4 km.
Via the W3, the Via de Ligação, the JK Bridge and a bit along the Dom Bosco: 17,2 km - going straight.
We are talking about a km of difference, which is in itself not really convincing. But this is the retorno-free, round-about free line that saves the driver here. But looking at these maps quickly might easily be misleading about the issues. This is the problem with Brasilia. From above, from very far above, it is difficult the understand the challenges of the city layout. I mean, the guys who planned the city did not imagined how frustrating it would be to move around. At the contrary, they were convinced to have created the best place to live on earth!
A few weeks ago I found this backroad that makes it much faster to get to the airport. It must cut off 5 or 6 km to the entire trip. This road cuts through what is called the chacaras, which were initially properties with a agrarian use. Today these properties are mostly large estates with comfortable mansions, just like anywhere else in the plush suburb of Lago Sul. The beauty of this road is not only its landscape but also the fact that there is no photo radar. Don't get me wrong, I am not a real speeder. But any distractions are so costly that I prefer taking the back road.
A more important discovery was this "highway" to the JK bridge, all the way from the W3 South to the bridge, uninterrupted by retornos (U-turns) or round-abouts. It is called Via das Ligação Se/Ne, the SE/NE Connecting Avenue. Why am I so excited by this find? It is because if moving North-South in this city can be in a very short time and in a very direct way using the large Exio, moving East-West. But crossing the "wing" of the plane of Brasilia, through the quadras (clusters of housing blocks) is frankly speaking a pain. Moving East-West was obviously not a concerned for the planners, imagining that weaving through the quadras would flow easily, but the effort of reaching the W3 from the bridges and Lago Sul is greater than coming from completely the opposite direction (Asa Norte).
In other words, without the Ligação, the West-East travel necessitates to needle in and out of the quadras through their commercial streets. Commercial streets which are already congested by the lack of parking space and the number of enthusiast double-line parkers. And since the quadras are not aligned with one another, but arranged in staggered lots one from another, one has to flow along around a round-about to the next connecting street to the following round-about to the next quadra's commercial street to a set of three dips under the massive Eixo and its side Eixãos through the next commercial and around the next round about to the next connecting street to the next round about to the next commercial street until you reach the W3. Dizzy?
A portion of the Ligação is fairly new, so new that Google Maps did not get it right yet (yes I doctored the maps to show you where I drive). But the good news is some planners have accepted to cut through the "picture perfect plan of Brasilia" to make something essential and efficient, probably amidst some purist opposition.
Via the quadras, the Garça Bridge and along Dom Bosco road: 18,4 km.
Via the W3, the Via de Ligação, the JK Bridge and a bit along the Dom Bosco: 17,2 km - going straight.
We are talking about a km of difference, which is in itself not really convincing. But this is the retorno-free, round-about free line that saves the driver here. But looking at these maps quickly might easily be misleading about the issues. This is the problem with Brasilia. From above, from very far above, it is difficult the understand the challenges of the city layout. I mean, the guys who planned the city did not imagined how frustrating it would be to move around. At the contrary, they were convinced to have created the best place to live on earth!
Petites Madeleines
Some of us are born bakers, while others chefs. I love being invited to my friends E, she makes these amazing petites madeleines, a treat that is absolutely impossible to find here.
When we got here, a newly-made friend described our future life as a "never ending BBQ". I would tend to correct him and say it is a "never ending food tasting event"... Nothing to complain about!
When we got here, a newly-made friend described our future life as a "never ending BBQ". I would tend to correct him and say it is a "never ending food tasting event"... Nothing to complain about!
Thursday, May 30, 2013
Coffee Cultures are not Always the Same
The other day I found myself very distracted in my yoga class. Beside her mat, this woman had what appeared to be a cup of Starbucks coffee. A clarification to my foreign-based readership: there are no Starbucks in Brasilia. I meditated over that cup while we were doing breathing exercises, wondering about the reasons of my disturbance. I mean, I am not a Starbucks lover. Even if crowds love them, I have never found their coffee amazing; the various coffee mixes and drinks they proposed never were my thing.
But in many other countries, Starbucks coffee shops are merge into the urban landscape. They have invaded cities like Paris, London and Moscow, they are a place to retreat, read, surf the web, more than just a place to get a drink.
In Beijing these stores would inhabit the lobby of many towers. Affluent Chinese would splurge to get a coffee that could cost them 4 times less in a local shop.
In Vancouver, I remember a street corner with 3 Starbucks shops kitty corner from one another. And in the streets, hardly no passerby's hands, strollers or backpack was without a Starbucks thermos-mug.
Here in Brasilia then, no Starbucks. Nope, none. Zero. (There is no Ikea either, but that is another topic entirely).
My years in Africa were also Starbucks-free - but this was no surprise as neither Senegal, Congo or Liberia rhymed with coffee culture, nor popular destination for American imperialism. And I was not there looking for places to hang out, I was far too busy with my work then.
But the absence of Starbucks does not mean a place is not a coffee culture, at the contrary.
As an example, Italy is entirely Starbucks-free. But in Italy, the coffee culture is strong, and with like any Italian things, its making and serving requires precision. No frapuccino latté with soy milk topped with cinnamon is allowed passed the Italian border. Here, tiny cups of creamy and smooth coffee are drank quickly standing at the bar. And cappuccinos are reserved for late afternoon, when there is time to leisurely savor the beverage. In Italy, coffee is so good that even an expresso is drank without sugar. Now Starbucks cannot compete with that.
Here in Brazil coffee is available almost everywhere. It is no surprise since the country produces about one third of all the world's production. The coffee culture is deeply linked to the history of the economic development of the country and slavery.
Yet for my North American eye, this local coffee culture is full of contradiction.
Today, years after the abolition of slavery, coffee is very present in Brazilians' lives. I like to think it is expressed by this interesting linguistic fact: When having their breakfast, the Brazilians say "tomar café de manha", literally to drink a morning coffee, even if there is no coffee involved, or even if they are solely eating their breakfast.
In daily life, coffee is usually available for free in popular restaurants, those buffet "by the kilo", from a thermos, in a self-help form. The super strong and sweetened brew is also available for free in grocery stores, gas stations, doctor's office and other places with waiting involved. It is available in about every grocery stores, even in the dodgy ones, maybe hiding at the end of an aisle. And at best you might get three sips from these baby size plastic cups. Not really the best way to enjoy it I guess, but certainly a good way to get a coffee fix.
When we arrived here, I tried to find where I could go for a coffee. Even if i quickly found the stand in the aisle of the grocery store, it did not really feel like my kind of hangout. But coffee shops did not pop in front of my eyes the same way they did in Italy, France or New York, yet this could initially be attributed to the unique quirkiness of Brasilia. I found them in malls and small shopping complexes. But what I found most often were pastry shops serving coffee. And while these shops would serve all the unimaginable types of local and foreign cakes and pastries, coffee was usually a very simple, black, bitter expresso (which I love).
In some of them, I sat with my computer to work, but in most occasions I felt at odd, either stealing valuable seating place for those rushing in and out. Laptops in these pastry shops were not a common sight, or even just people sitting for more than 20 minutes after they finish their drinks. Probably nobody said anything because I was obviously a foreigner. Or because my portuguese was null at the time. These places were not coffee shops in a anglo-saxon world, Starbucks way. I eventually just gave these up.
In any cases, the other day I just walked into one of these restaurants, those that have their breakfast buffet open early. I was seeing people walking out with what I assumed was egg sandwiches. I ordered a coffee, to go.
Just the Starbucks way, right.
The waitress firstly expressed some kind of surprise but produced the desired beverage in a styrofoam cup, without lid. When I indicated that this was not going to work in my car, she just simply covered the cup with a plastic film. I stood there puzzled, at the cashier, wondering how to address this situation, how to drink it while driving.
I was just reminded again there is no Starbucks way here.
I just picked a straw into the film: Ready to go!
But in many other countries, Starbucks coffee shops are merge into the urban landscape. They have invaded cities like Paris, London and Moscow, they are a place to retreat, read, surf the web, more than just a place to get a drink.
In Beijing these stores would inhabit the lobby of many towers. Affluent Chinese would splurge to get a coffee that could cost them 4 times less in a local shop.
In Vancouver, I remember a street corner with 3 Starbucks shops kitty corner from one another. And in the streets, hardly no passerby's hands, strollers or backpack was without a Starbucks thermos-mug.
Here in Brasilia then, no Starbucks. Nope, none. Zero. (There is no Ikea either, but that is another topic entirely).
My years in Africa were also Starbucks-free - but this was no surprise as neither Senegal, Congo or Liberia rhymed with coffee culture, nor popular destination for American imperialism. And I was not there looking for places to hang out, I was far too busy with my work then.
But the absence of Starbucks does not mean a place is not a coffee culture, at the contrary.
As an example, Italy is entirely Starbucks-free. But in Italy, the coffee culture is strong, and with like any Italian things, its making and serving requires precision. No frapuccino latté with soy milk topped with cinnamon is allowed passed the Italian border. Here, tiny cups of creamy and smooth coffee are drank quickly standing at the bar. And cappuccinos are reserved for late afternoon, when there is time to leisurely savor the beverage. In Italy, coffee is so good that even an expresso is drank without sugar. Now Starbucks cannot compete with that.
Here in Brazil coffee is available almost everywhere. It is no surprise since the country produces about one third of all the world's production. The coffee culture is deeply linked to the history of the economic development of the country and slavery.
Yet for my North American eye, this local coffee culture is full of contradiction.
Today, years after the abolition of slavery, coffee is very present in Brazilians' lives. I like to think it is expressed by this interesting linguistic fact: When having their breakfast, the Brazilians say "tomar café de manha", literally to drink a morning coffee, even if there is no coffee involved, or even if they are solely eating their breakfast.
In daily life, coffee is usually available for free in popular restaurants, those buffet "by the kilo", from a thermos, in a self-help form. The super strong and sweetened brew is also available for free in grocery stores, gas stations, doctor's office and other places with waiting involved. It is available in about every grocery stores, even in the dodgy ones, maybe hiding at the end of an aisle. And at best you might get three sips from these baby size plastic cups. Not really the best way to enjoy it I guess, but certainly a good way to get a coffee fix.
When we arrived here, I tried to find where I could go for a coffee. Even if i quickly found the stand in the aisle of the grocery store, it did not really feel like my kind of hangout. But coffee shops did not pop in front of my eyes the same way they did in Italy, France or New York, yet this could initially be attributed to the unique quirkiness of Brasilia. I found them in malls and small shopping complexes. But what I found most often were pastry shops serving coffee. And while these shops would serve all the unimaginable types of local and foreign cakes and pastries, coffee was usually a very simple, black, bitter expresso (which I love).
In some of them, I sat with my computer to work, but in most occasions I felt at odd, either stealing valuable seating place for those rushing in and out. Laptops in these pastry shops were not a common sight, or even just people sitting for more than 20 minutes after they finish their drinks. Probably nobody said anything because I was obviously a foreigner. Or because my portuguese was null at the time. These places were not coffee shops in a anglo-saxon world, Starbucks way. I eventually just gave these up.
In any cases, the other day I just walked into one of these restaurants, those that have their breakfast buffet open early. I was seeing people walking out with what I assumed was egg sandwiches. I ordered a coffee, to go.
Just the Starbucks way, right.
The waitress firstly expressed some kind of surprise but produced the desired beverage in a styrofoam cup, without lid. When I indicated that this was not going to work in my car, she just simply covered the cup with a plastic film. I stood there puzzled, at the cashier, wondering how to address this situation, how to drink it while driving.
I was just reminded again there is no Starbucks way here.
I just picked a straw into the film: Ready to go!
Testing out the New Camera
While walking I am taking along my new camera. I purchased a Canon G15, following the recommendation of our friend Adi, who is a professional photographer in Tel Aviv. I could not imagine taking the big Nikon and its big lens along. It would be too heavy, too cumbersome to carry around in a hike. I like to take photos, but I would be afraid to actually come back with some damaged equipment.
So now that my pretty cute and light G15 as arrived, I am playing and testing it around. What better time to do than than during my morning walks? The light is great, adding a glowing yellow tone to everything.
So now that my pretty cute and light G15 as arrived, I am playing and testing it around. What better time to do than than during my morning walks? The light is great, adding a glowing yellow tone to everything.
Working these Feet Again
After 8 weeks of cast, I am trying to put my feet back onto a regime. I get out in the morning and go walk around the area, in the SMDBs and the back streets. I am pretty happy, it feels very good, and the walking is not bothering my foot at all. I put on my old walking boots, the ones that took me around the Pirenées and the Alpes and the Rockies. These Merrel are still the best boot I have ever had.
Off the boots, barefoot, I still have trouble flexing and pointing my toes, but I am told the cast was on too long. A lovely physiotherapist help them get back to their normal state. And high heels are out for now, limiting my choices of footwear to a handful of pairs. But that said, I now really enjoy the return of my mobility, and these early morning walks.
Off the boots, barefoot, I still have trouble flexing and pointing my toes, but I am told the cast was on too long. A lovely physiotherapist help them get back to their normal state. And high heels are out for now, limiting my choices of footwear to a handful of pairs. But that said, I now really enjoy the return of my mobility, and these early morning walks.
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
New Art
Look at the new art piece Noam came up with!
For a few weeks, the kids have been drawing monuments. Today they got their inspiration with the Eiffel Tower. I like how my little Canadian-(American-Israeli) boy "claimed" the metal structure... Note the maple leaf taking some similarities to the Brazilian map.
For a few weeks, the kids have been drawing monuments. Today they got their inspiration with the Eiffel Tower. I like how my little Canadian-(American-Israeli) boy "claimed" the metal structure... Note the maple leaf taking some similarities to the Brazilian map.
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